In this issue and continuing thereafter, InfomapJapan introduces a series of articles on the culture and delectable nature of Japanese food and drink. The nuanced aroma and palate pleasing taste of artistically presented dishes are appreciated alike by sophisticated gourmets and ordinary food fans worldwide.
The origins of 'wagashi' harkens to ancient
time when cakes and dumplings were made of
rice, millet, other grains along with nuts and
fruits that were at the base of Japan's dietary
staples. 'Wagashi' evolved from confectionery
introduced to Japan by envoys returning from
China after the 7th century and western-style
confectioneries introduced from Portugal and
Spain which were the only trading countries
during the late 16th and early 17th centuries.
For example, the original form of 'yokan' and
'manju' were introduced from China and
developed during the 12th to 16th centuries.
During the Edo Period (1603 - 1868), the Kyoto
Tea Ceremony culture was particularly influential
in the evolution of 'wagashi' and the confections
gradually came to be used as complement
in the tea ceremony to show one's hospitality.
Thus, elaborately-designed 'wagashi' or
'wagashi' with 'mei' appeared and lead to the
forms of 'wagashi' that people know and love
today. 'Mei' is an inscription or poem made for
the 'wagashi' envisioned by Japanese classic
literature that came to have a big role as a
cultural element taking the guest into a world of
imagination with the presentation of 'wagashi'.
For example, the image of 'taori-zakura' (snap
off a cherry blossom) shown in the 'namagashi'
section shown next page, that particular confectionery
expresses the sentiment the cherry
blossoms are so beautiful one is tempted to snap
a branch off to bring home.
'Sado' the much loved Japanese tradition isn't
complete without a tasty complement of 'wagashi'
often served with 'koicha' or 'usucha' in keeping
with the elaborate tea ceremony. The confections
are carefully calibrated so that aroma and taste are
subtle so as not to overcome the essence of
carefully chosen green tea. Sweet and non-oily 'wagashi' are expected to add to
the aesthetics of the proceedings and often are served as snacks with tea.
Good for you 'Wagashi'
Red beans are the main ingredients of 'wagashi' along with grains such as
wheat, rice, sesame seeds, yam, sugar and 'kanten' (agar) added as required. All
natural ingredients chock-full of vegetable substance, without animal fats
(except eggs) and thus good news for those concerned about bad cholesterol. For
example, red bean jam (a common 'wagashi' ingredient made from boiled
'azuki' beans and sugar) is abundant in high quality protein with a good balance
of linolic and linolen acid, vitamins E, B1, B2, B6, amino acid, mineral calcium,
phosphor, potassium, magnesium, and iron. Rich in vegetable fiber that provides
a crucial role in a good digestive system, it's no wonder 'wagashi' are rightfully
claimed to be tasty and healthy sweets.
A delicate, red or white
variety of bean grown in Japan
using special methods, 'azuki' are often cooked into 'an', a
sweet paste used in a wide range of sweet confections.
Kanten
Extracted from seaweed,
'kanten' is used in
making jellied 'wagashi'
such as 'yokan'.
Wasambonto
One of the oldest of
Japanese produced
sugars, 'wasambonto'
is the result of intensive
labor and unique refining
process; it features a powdery
smooth texture, elegant taste and fragrance commonly
made into 'higashi', a molded dry sweet.
The extensive array of 'wagashi' does not merely
encompass a single group of confections; rather,
the art of Japanese confectionery owes its great
diversity largely to its ingredients and methods of
preparation.
Namagashi
'Namagashi' are
beautifully crafted
confections made fresh
daily with delicate forms
reflecting the varied facets
of nature throughout Japan.
Artistically conjuring up the essence of each season, the
promise of spring as buds open, dew drops on verdant summer
leaves, flamboyant colors of fall and the intensity of winter plum
blossoms. The names given to these fine confections resonate
with poetic language that enhances the delights of 'wagashi'.
Yokan
Made with 'azuki' bean paste,
'kanten' and sugar, 'yokan' is
a thick jellied sweet and
one of the most popular
'wagashi'. The form as it is
now was completed during
Edo Period (1603-1867). With a
long shelf life it's a recommended
gift item.
Monaka
Two thin, crisp
wafers made from
sticky rice and often
shaped as delicate
cherry blossoms or
elegant chrysanthemum,
'monaka' is packed with 'azuki'
bean paste.
Manju
A great favorite is the
sweet bun made of 'joyo'
(yam) dough or flour,
steamed and filled with
bean paste.
Higashi (Dried Sweets)
'Higashi' is glutinous rice flour, sugar or 'Wasambonto' and
starch blended and pressed in molds to form dry sweets.
'Namagashi' in its delicate forms reflects the varied faces of Japan's four
seasons; these particular 'wagashi' are displayed in stores a full month ahead
of the seasonal event. For example, 'Sakura-mochi' celebrating Japan's
beloved cherry blossom time near April is available at the end of February.
While enjoying the delicious taste of a 'Sakura-mochi', one can sense the
coming of spring while imaging the
loveliness of a cherry tree heavy laden
in white blossoms. Only in Japanese
culture can one discover sweets and
confections that are magically
transcended into harbingers of the
coming seasons.
The Art of the Five Senses
'Wagashi's' fascination to an epicure is its unlimited appeal to all five senses
with each confection an open invitation to indulge our innate sense of voluptuousness.
Culture, tradition and eye-caching scenery, will ever inspire
Japan's confectioners to craft new varieties of delicious 'wagashi'. To know
Japan is to know 'wagashi'!
Appearance
Shapes, colors and the crafting of 'wagashi' are a reflection of
distinctive Japanese literature, painting and textiles. Often
evoking images from nature, 'wagashi' are a visual feast.
Taste
Taste is a primary sense through which we experience the
various, distinctive flavors of 'wagashi'. These confectionaries
are made largely from natural ingredients such as beans and
grains that are staples in the traditional, healthy Japanese diet.
Texture
To appreciate delicious 'wagashi' each piece must be soft, moist
or crisp when in the hand, cut to serve or placed on the tongue,
qualities that must be present to reveal the freshness, quality and
uniqueness of each confection.
Aroma
From a 'wagashi' wafts a delicate aroma that emits a subtle
scent of the natural ingredients used to create the sweets without
overcoming the savour of the accompanying beverage.
Sound
The lyrical Japanese names bestowed on each 'wagashi', spoken
aloud and the pleasurable images evoked are most agreeable to
the ear. Many names are derived from classical prose and poetry,
while others may suggest a season.
'Wagashi' are closely associated with major traditional, seasonal events, holidays and
Japanese history while others are made to enjoy seasonal changes.
'Oshogatsu' - (New Year) Jan.1st
January 1st is a time to welcome the god of the New Year and
occasion for enthusiastic celebrations and personal renewal. The
Japanese love to decorate their homes with 'kadomatsu' (gate
pines) and 'kagamimochi' (special rice cakes), to feast on
'osechiryori' (traditional New Year dishes), visit shrines and
temples to pray for health and blessings. 'Hanabira-mochi' has
become a very popular 'wagashi' in the recent past while
'Iwaiushi' represents the Chinese Zodiac sign for the Ox for 2009.
'Hina-matsuri' (Girl's Festival) - Mar. 3rd
On the 3rd of March occurs a wonderful Japanese tradition when
families with daughters display a handsome set of Hina-dolls
(Emperor, Empress and attendants). 'Hishimochi' (rice cakes),
'hina arare' (popped rice), 'rakugan' and 'sakura-mochi' are set in
front of the figurines as an offering and later enjoyed by
everyone. 'Akoya' is standard 'wagashi' shaped in pearl shell
motif in western Japan.
'Tango no Sekku' (Boy's Festival) - May 5th
On the 5th of May, 'Tango no Sekku' solicits health and future
progress for the family's boys. Outside flutter 'Koinobori'
(colored carp streamers), inside are displayed warrior dolls
'Musha-Kazari', miniature armor and swords. Special rice cakes,
'Chimaki' wrapped with bamboo leaves and 'Kashiwamochi'
wrapped in oak leaves are delicious part of the celebrations.
'Otsukimi' (Moon-gazing) - Aug.15 / Sep.13 (on the lunar calendar)
Usually around this time in the fall in Japan, in a clear sky,
'Otsukimi' is the most propitious time to gaze upon a dazzling full
moon. Japanese pampas grass is displayed while 'tsukimi danngo'
(dumpling) are ceremoniously offered to the lunar goddess.
Coinciding with the harvest season for Japanese taro, beans and
chestnuts, the full moon around this time is variously called 'Imomeigetsu'
(taro harvest moon), 'Mame-meigetsu' (bean harvest
moon) or 'Kuri-meigetsu' (chestnuts harvest moon). A variety of
'wagashi' are made to associate with this event.
It is best to eat a 'wagashi' fresh as refrigeration
causes it to dry and harden. If to be
savored within the same day, keep cool and in
a dark place (although it may differ depending
on the type of 'wagashi'), it's all right to
freeze after storing into an airtight container;
to eat, defrost at room temperature for about
an hour. 'Wagashi' are fine complements not
only to Japanese green tea but also enjoyable
with black tea or coffee.
'Wagashi' shops are found everywhere, however,
famed "Toraya" one of the oldest makers of
traditional confectionary in Japan is one of the very
best and varied source of 'wagashi' at its main store.
"Toraya" has two well-stocked outlets located in
Terminal 1 and 2 at Narita Airport where the customer
is sure to find delicious 'yokan', 'monaka' and many other kinds to please themselves.
(Please note that 'namagashi' must be prepared daily and sold fresh, therefore
unavailable at Narita.)
'Wagashi' are closely associated with major traditional, seasonal events, holidays and
Japanese history while others are made to enjoy seasonal changes.
"Toraya" the main store in Akasaka
Namagashi
'Namagashi' are
beautifully crafted
confections made fresh
daily with delicate forms
reflecting the varied facets
of nature throughout Japan.
Artistically conjuring up the essence of each season, the
promise of spring as buds open, dew drops on verdant summer
leaves, flamboyant colors of fall and the intensity of winter plum
blossoms. The names given to these fine confections resonate
with poetic language that enhances the delights of 'wagashi'.